5 harmful chemical ingredients to watch out for in moisturisers

During winter, when skin becomes extremely dry, applying moisturizer after showering and upon waking is a must. However, besides hydrating and skin-nourishing ingredients, the lotion you apply daily may also contain harmful chemicals that could cause allergies, disrupt hormones, or even be linked to cancer. Dermatologists and environmental health experts break down 5 common "chemical traps" found on ingredient labels.

US dermatologist Dr. Kevin Sharghi explains that a good moisturizer should work like a team, containing three key types of ingredients:

• Humectants: Responsible for "drawing in" water from the environment and deeper skin layers. Examples: Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, glycolic acid, aloe vera.
• Emollients: Responsible for filling the spaces between skin cells, making skin smoother and softer. Examples: Squalane, ceramides, various plant oils (like shea butter, jojoba oil).
• Occlusives: Form a physical barrier on the skin's surface to prevent moisture loss. Examples: Beeswax, castor oil, coconut oil.

However, besides these beneficial ingredients, many products on the market contain chemicals that may be harmful to human health or the environment. The US non-profit consumer rights organization Consumer Reports evaluated over 80 moisturizers on the market, analyzing their ingredient labels. They found many products contained ingredients that are possibly or known to be harmful to humans and the environment. Environmental health scientist Dr. Rainbow Rubin reminds us that while the dose of harmful ingredients in a single product may be low, using multiple personal care products daily can cause these chemicals to accumulate in the body, potentially threatening long-term health. Experts caution to especially avoid the following 5 "chemical traps" when choosing a moisturizer.

Moisturizer Chemical Traps: Potential Allergies, Cancer Risk, Hormone Disruption

Trap 1: Harmful Preservatives

• Phenoxyethanol: Commonly found in personal care products marketed as "Clean Beauty." Although naturally present in green tea, the phenoxyethanol used in moisturizers is synthetic and may contain residual industrial chemicals linked to cancer and genetic damage.
• Parabens: These common preservatives have been linked to endocrine (hormone) disruption in laboratory and animal studies. Look for words ending in "-paraben" on labels, such as Methylparaben, Propylparaben.
• Formaldehyde Releasers: These slowly release formaldehyde, a Group 1 carcinogen, into the product. Common names include DMDM Hydantoin, Diazolidinyl Urea.
• BHT: Linked to endocrine disruption in animal studies.
• Disodium EDTA / EDTA: The manufacturing process involves harmful chemicals.

Trap 2: Petroleum By-Products like Mineral Oil, Petrolatum

While these are excellent occlusives that effectively lock in skin moisture, the refining process can lead to contamination with "polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons" (PAHs) , and some PAHs are linked to cancer.

Trap 3: Undisclosed Fragrance

A simple "Fragrance" listing on a label can potentially hide thousands of different chemicals. Some of these ingredients are linked to cancer, hormone disruption, severe allergies, and other problems.

Trap 4: The "Unscented" Myth

Note: "Unscented" does not equal "Fragrance-Free" . Formulations labeled unscented may contain other chemical "masking agents" used to hide the odor of other raw materials and ingredients. Look for products explicitly labeled "Fragrance-Free" instead.

Trap 5: Silicones

These are used to give products a smoother texture and provide an occlusive effect. However, they are difficult for the environment to break down, and some types are suspected of potentially disrupting endocrine function. Watch for words ending in "-silane," "-siloxane," or "-cone" on ingredient labels.

Does Skin Become Dependent on Moisturizer? Does It Get Drier If You Stop?

Some people think that once you start using moisturizer, your skin becomes dependent on it and will get even drier if you stop. But Dr. Zakia Rahman, Professor of Dermatology at Stanford University School of Medicine, states plainly: "This is absolutely a myth." The role of moisturizer is to protect the skin's outermost barrier, thereby locking in moisture. When you stop using it, the skin simply returns to its original dry state; there is no "addiction" issue. 

Therefore, you can use it according to your skin's needs without worry. The best time to apply is immediately after bathing, while the skin is still slightly damp, for optimal moisture locking.

How to Choose a Safer Moisturizer?

• Choose "Fragrance-Free": This is the simplest, most direct method, especially suitable for sensitive skin.
• Avoid Petroleum By-Products: Look for alternatives as occlusives, such as natural plant oils and beeswax like shea butter.
• Scrutinize Preservatives: Avoid the preservatives listed above with health risks. Ingredients like citric acid, sorbic acid are relatively safer alternatives.
• Third-Party Certification Labels: Choosing products with reputable third-party certifications or organic certifications indicates that their ingredients have undergone stricter review and is a relatively reliable selection indicator.