Central closure feeds belief end of an era is at hand

I was saddened to learn that an iconic congee and noodle shop, which holds a special place in my heart, has recently closed.

After serving generations of diners for over 70 years, it bid farewell to its locations on Lyndhurst Terrace and Des Voeux Road just before Chinese New Year.

As a child, I often visited Law Fu Kee with my father. It was one of the first places I went to after university in the United States and the first place I took my wife.

This beloved establishment was more than just a restaurant; it was a cornerstone of community life, a gathering place where people enjoyed comforting meals and immersed themselves in our vibrant local food culture.

Its closure signals the end of an era and serves as a poignant reminder of the delicate balance between preserving tradition and embracing change in our ever-evolving city.

While high operating overheads and financial pressure on many households are changing dining habits, an ever-increasing number of locals are traveling across the border for better value for money.

In recent months, the city has witnessed the closure of several long-standing eateries, including Dragon Palace Restaurant after 60 years, Yumai after 24 years and Itacho Sushi, which operated 27 branches since 2007.

I still vividly remember the hustle and bustle of the often packed Law Fu Kee, which was alive with a symphony of sights, sounds and aromas. Staff expertly navigated tightly packed tables, balancing trays of steaming congee, fish balls with clam sauce and other local staples.

Tables were often shared with strangers, and the clatter of bowls and chopsticks blended with the kitchen sounds, creating a chaotic yet harmonious cacophony and a vibrant scene that fostered a sense of community, a spirit slowly disappearing from our food culture.

In 2016, the owners donated the shop's iconic neon signage on Lyndhurst Terrace to the M+ museum collection to preserve another aspect of our culture, which is disappearing. The neon culture symbolized our eclectic and vibrant street life. It inspired many internationally renowned artists, fashion designers, and photographers and identified Hong Kong for people worldwide.

Law Fu Kee will be profoundly missed, but many will fondly recall and cherish it for its superb food and vibrant, slightly chaotic atmosphere, which was quintessentially Hong Kong.

Bernard Charnwut Chan is chairman of Tai Kwun Culture & Arts Co Ltd