Rianto dances gracefully in front of thousands in Jakarta, whipping his sash and in full make-up as he performs a centuries-old folk dance frowned upon by conservatives.
The Lengger Lanang dance tradition, rooted in 16th-century fertility and harvest rituals from Central Java province, has since evolved into an art form that challenges rigid beliefs around masculinity in a deeply conservative and religious society.
It features men dressed as Javanese princesses, wearing tight, batik dresses and ornaments woven into fake hair bun updos.
But the tradition is close to disappearing, with fewer than 100 performers courageous enough to dance in shows.
"Lengger is still looked down on and stigmatized," says Rianto, a 42-year-old dancer and choreographer. "People still see men dancing as going against the norm."
Backed by lively Javanese beats and melodies, dancers sway hips, flick fingers and throw seductive glances at audiences.
Performers crack jokes in deep baritone voices, reminding their audience that, while they are wearing dresses, they are male.
"Lengger Lanang is where masculine and feminine meet in a body and is aimed at creating peace within oneself," says Rianto, who is married to a Japanese woman.
It was once a highly revered folk art where dancers were idolized and respected for being able to embody both genders. But it is being challenged as prejudice grows against anything perceived as queer-related.
A 2018 movie about a dancer loosely based on Rianto's life story received critical acclaim but was banned in several Indonesian cities after conservatives said it promoted homosexuality.
In Banyumas, Lengger Lanang's birthplace, a festival held in September is one of the few places where it is celebrated openly.
The dance was once considered sacred.
"It was a post-harvest ritual to express gratitude to the goddess of fertility, later adapted into a form of entertainment, sometimes to welcome a grand guest," says Lynda Susana Ayu Fatmawati, a researcher at Jenderal Soedirman University.
Even today, to become a dancer you must undergo cleansing rituals such as fasting, bathing in springs and meditation.
Before each performance, dancers light incense, and lay out flower petals and coconuts as offerings to God.
However, some conservative Muslims say men should not dress or act like women.
"The prophet condemned it," says Taefur Arofat, head of Banyumas Ulema Council, the town's top Islamic body.
For Rianto and other dancers, that perception has made everyday life hard.
"Being a male dancer is very difficult," he says. "The stigma is very negative as dancing is associated with femininity."
Another dancer, 47-year-old Torra Buana, says he has to keep his dancing a secret even from his family.
"But not all men can do this," he adds, referring to his dance form. "Only the chosen ones who have been blessed by God."
Not everyone has a problem with it.
"It's art and we need to prevent it from disappearing," spectator Hendro Utomo said after the Jakarta show.
Rianto has established Rumah Lengger, a center where young dancers can practice and learn the philosophy behind the art.
One of the young prodigies is Ayi Nur Ringgo, who fell in love with the tradition after watching videos at university.
After taking it up he was forced to confront negative comments from classmates.
"I have made peace with myself and my strength," he says. "I no longer care."
Under Rianto's wing, he and fellow dancers are trying to keep the tradition alive.
"I want to continue and regenerate this culture," Rianto says.
AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
Eileen Hall
