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Earlier this week, over 500 Piemontese wine producers came together in Turin to celebrate the 10th edition of Grandi Langhe and to showcase the latest release of many 2022 Barolos and 2023 Barbarescos. The flagship event not only demonstrated the majesty of the prestigious northern Italian wines – it was also a testimony to the viticultural diversity and profound heritage of this historic region.
Known for their dry and rather warm weather during the growing season, the vintages 2022 and 2023 generated low production volume but wines of high quality. Danny Ng, assistant food and beverage director of The American Club Hong Kong, was impressed with the aromatics and elegance of the Nebbiolos. Long gone were the days when you were recommended to wait 10 years for the famous Piemontese reds to become approachable. Comparing Nebbiolos across various villages and crus, it was confirmed that modern technology and innovative vinification approaches could harmonize negative impacts from challenging climatic and microclimatic conditions. Ronald Khoo, wine, spirits and beverage manager of Cathay Pacific airline hailed the consistency and beauty of the Piemontese products, which were important aspects for wine lovers seeking pleasure and comfort on their journeys.
Among the 3,000 labels featured in the fair, the “baby” Nebbiolo d’Alba had certainly played an important role in offering an earlier-drinking option for the native grape variety known for its high tannin and powerful structure. These 100 percent Nebbiolo wines were only required to age for 12 months before release, and generated characters of pure red fruits and potpourri with softer acidity. Other Nebbiolo-based wines from Alto Piemonte at the foot of the Alps, such as Gattinara, Ghemme, and Boca expressed a different style of cool-climate pristine and austerity.
Interestingly, more and more wineries are also making Nebbiolo d’Alba “Spumante” utilizing the traditional sparkling wine production method. Overall, the fair had proven the versatility of Northern Italy’s most important native black grape variety beyond its stereotypical image of a tough, old-school red wine.
Alice Wong is a certified wine educator based in Hong Kong
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