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Nirmal Purja, the Nepali-born British climber who completed all 14 of the world’s highest peaks above 8,000 meters in record time, was killed at the age of 43 along with nine other climbers after an avalanche struck their expedition on Broad Peak in Pakistan on July 30.
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According to media reports, at the time of the accident, Purja was leading a 10-member team organized by Elite Exped, the mountaineering company he co-founded. The group lost contact at around 6,600 meters on the 8,051-metre mountain. The team included five Nepali guides, one Pakistani guide and climbers from China, the United States and Oman. Rescue teams had identified the remains of eight climbers by Aug 4, while searches for the remaining two continued.
The accident ended the life of one of the most recognizable figures in modern mountaineering. Born in Nepal’s Gandaki Province, Purja followed his family’s military tradition and joined the British Army’s Brigade of Gurkhas in 2003. In 2009, he became the first Nepali to join the Royal Navy Special Boat Service (SBS), one of Britain’s elite special forces units.
His path to mountaineering began in 2012, when a holiday trek to Everest Base Camp inspired him to pursue high-altitude climbing. He later successfully summited Lobuche East Peak, a 6,119-metre mountain near Everest Base Camp, marking his first climb above 6,000 meters.
In 2019, Purja launched “Project Possible,” aiming to climb all 14 of the world’s highest peaks above 8,000 meters within seven months. He completed the challenge in 189 days, setting a world record that brought him global recognition. His achievement was later featured in the 2021 Netflix documentary “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible”.
Purja continued to push the limits of high-altitude climbing. In 2021, he led a team of Nepali climbers to achieve the first winter ascent of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain. His achievements also helped draw greater attention to Nepali climbers, who had historically worked mainly as guides and support staff for international expeditions.
However, his career was also marked by controversy. Some climbers criticized his use of supplemental oxygen, fixed ropes and large support teams, arguing that his approach differed from traditional styles of mountaineering. According to American media, two female climbers accused Purja of sexual misconduct in 2024, which he denied through his lawyer later.
Despite the debates surrounding his climbing style, Purja remained a prominent figure in modern mountaineering. In one of his final social media posts, he wrote that he never underestimated any mountain and always gave “100 per cent” once he left base camp.
That determination defined a career that repeatedly challenged the limits of high-altitude climbing and brought greater attention to Nepali climbers on the world stage.
