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There has been much anticipation after Solange Knowles sang the swansong of outgoing Humberto Leon and Carol Lim last year, the design duo whose overly-busy designs had begun to suffer criticism.

Though it was not a triumph, the Portuguese-born Oliveira Baptista — who had previously revived Lacoste — put out a solid and saleable collection of men’s and women’s designs that successfully pushed the house toward a focused and minimalist mood.

There were flashes of creative flourish: such as a giant double-breasted tailored coat in vibrant medium blue that hung in a column surreally to the model’s ankles. It touched the billowing hem of oversize pants. Elsewhere, headwear cleverly morphed a 1950′s-style cloche hat with a Asian warrior headpiece — and provoked the clicking of guests’ cameras.

But most of all, this was a commercially-minded collection, and demonstrated perhaps why LVMH selected Oliveira Baptista in the first place to head one of their premier fashion maisons. When Oliveira Baptista became creative director at Lacoste in 2010 he transformed the house over the eight-year stint. LVMH may well have been impressed by the designer’s proved skill at transforming a dwindling house into a commercial runway success story.-AP

(Paris Fashion Week) Kenzo goes minimalist