For these stores, many of which have been around for more than half a century, the importance of maintaining what they call a diminishing business far outweighs that of saving sharks from extinction.

The manager of a shark fin and dried seafood wholesaler on Bonham Strand West, who gave his name as Chu, said the fins he sells are sourced from the Middle East. The store, which has been in operation for 14 years, sells to the large concentration of shark fin retailers along Des Voeux Road West, who, in turn, sell to restaurants and shoppers. Chu estimates there are about 100 wholesalers and 200 retailers in the territory.

``Business has become better with the economic recovery,'' he said. ``But it is never as good as before 1997. I don't think the killing of sharks is that serious a problem. They will die anyway as part of the natural cycle.''

Wong and Mak, two other managers of shark fin retailers on Des Voeux Road West, gave their sources as South America and Southeast Asia, but said the most valuable fins come from northern European countries like Norway and Finland. One store sells fins as small as a finger's length. The shop assistant denied they were baby shark fins.

Mak admitted the harvesting process is cruel: ``The fish is almost certain to die after [its fins are removed], and if it doesn't it will be eaten by other fish. It's really difficult to differentiate which are `cruel' harvesting methods and which aren't.''

His store, Fook Shing Company, has been operating for nearly 60 years and boasts a picture of Prince Charles visiting in 1989. ``Some harvesters don't throw the creatures back into the sea [after removing their fins] but make use of their meat. I suppose that is less cruel.''

Nonetheless, Mak puts business before environmental concerns, noting it is the rarity of shark fins that makes them so pricey. ``It's business. Hong Kong people will demand it unless it is banned. In fact, where there are Chinese, there is a demand for shark fin,'' he said.

Demand typically soars in the last quarter of each year when there are more festive occasions and when many people choose to marry, he said. During peak season, a single restaurant will buy up to 300 kilograms of fins. Sellers said one shark can produce about 10 fins, including its dorsal, pelvic and tail fins. The tail fin, especially of species like the tiger shark, is the most valuable and costs up to HK$8,000 per kilogram.

Fins, which range from the dorsal fins to the tails and the tiny fins of baby sharks, are all on display. Prices range from a steep HK$3,900 per ½ kilogram for the prized tail fins of tiger sharks, which come from the Caribbean and areas where shark finning is banned, to between HK$2,500 and HK$1,700 a ½ kilogram for the dorsal fins.

Some shark fins in the HK$700 a ½ kilogram range that were on display, appeared to be from smaller sharks.

Mak also showed The Standard bags of shark cartilage at HK$180 per ½ kilogram.

In fall, an auspicious time for weddings, sales of shark fins go through the roof. Another seller said his shops can sell 150 kilograms of shark fins at that time alone.

The stores also sell shark byproducts, including fin bones, which can be ground, jellied and made into shark essence pills - good for beauty and health, sellers say.