Projecting with prints

Weekend Glitz | Eve Lam and Cara Chen 19 Mar 2021

A pioneer of harnessing motion in art, New Zealand artist Len Lye's visionary films are precursors of psychedelia - bold, optimistic, colorful, vivid and joyous.

These ideas can be found in the Dries van Noten Spring Summer 2021 collection, which explores the boundary between reality and illusion through light and shadow. The collection plays with prints derived from stills of Lye's works. Irregular color patches with blurred edges look like projections on the clothes that come to life under bright sunlight.

Stripes - which are actually shards of light cast through a louver shutter that were captured and printed - almost make you doubt what you're seeing. The highlight item is the spotlight coat, which has a bright neon pink circle that makes an odd match with the rest of the coat, echoes the projection theme and creates a visual contrast.

Airy light organza and silk organza bonded to linen and chinos contrast in both opacity and texture, and their light, comfy feel perfectly matches the weather.

Traditional embroidery techniques continue to inspire the fashion house's designs. A shirt with yarn embroidery and lace is matched with a long draped high-waisted skirt without side seams. Plane prints and three-dimensional texture pair perfectly with the tassels on the cuffs, adding a feminine touch.

Embroidery appears in another form on a leather top. Instead of thread, a laser cuts create a motif reminiscent of broderie anglaise.



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