Situated opposite the Tuileries Gardens, the restaurant was renovated by well-known designer Philip Starck one and a half years ago. The elegant chandeliers, wall paintings and bronze mirrors seemed to have taken us back in time.

We ordered the autumn set menu at 78 (HK$899), while the same dishes might cost up to 200 if ordered for dinner.

The amuse-bouche, or hors d'oeuvre, was sea urchin mixed with sweet corn, served in its shell. It was very smooth and creamy.

The appetizer was pate pantin made of beef and black pork loin served with local Sucrine lettuce and tasted exceptional.

The cod in the next course was marinated to taste slightly salty to match the white kidney beans.

The main course was sliced breast of wild duck with orange, and black dumplings made of duck thigh meat served with turnip and potato crisps. The meat was tender and succulent.

Dessert was Bourdaloue tart with pear and almond sauce. The petit fours included strawberry macaroon and marshmallows with gold leaf, which was so beautiful and delicate.

The house wine at Le Meurice is charged per glass. We ordered a riesling for 12 and a Chambolle Musigny for 30.

Besides Le Meurice, we also tried a two-star restaurant, Senderens, at Place de la Madeleine, whose chef Alain Senderens is a legendary figure.

The tasting menu costs only 110 with an extra 40 for wine pairing. There is a bar on the first floor serving finger food like tapas, sushi, sashimi and sake.

We ordered from the a la carte menu, which included ground wild mushroom with a half-boiled egg that tasted like white truffle. It cost just 80 per person - which was a real bargain.

By comparison, the Le Bristol inside Bristol hotel was a lot more expansive but more stylish.

Guests get to sit at different areas in the restaurant according to the season. The summer restaurant is next to the hotel's garden while the winter restaurant is a romantic place for couples.

Head chef Eric Frechon likes to give the classic dishes a modern twist.

The rack of lamb I chose only had four small pieces of meat but was priced at 87, yet there were lots of complimentary desserts so I did not starve.

If you are fed up with French cuisine, the roast duck rice and Vietnamese pho are also superb in Paris.

My wife and I ate the beef pho and red bean dessert at Pho 14 in Avenue de Choisy.

It was reasonably priced at 18 but the noodles were not soft enough, no match for those in Victoria Street in Melbourne, Australia. But the red bean dessert was surprisingly tasty.

Fans of roast duck rice and dumpling noodle can visit the well-known Mirama Restaurant at Rue St Jacques. The nice color of the roast duck and barbecued pork made my mouth water.

The roast duck rice, priced at 11.80, was delicious. The skin of the roast pork was not crispy enough but tasted all right while the dumplings and won ton noodles, priced at 8.90, was average. But, in general, it was a satisfying meal.

Stephen Ip, the retired secretary for economic development and labour, is enjoying a second career as food critic.