I t's no picnic being a vegetarian here, even though Hong Kong has 600 Buddhist temples and Buddhism encourages the practice of not eating meat.

On a busy Saturday afternoon in Argyle Street in Mong Kok, home to some of the territory's best street markets, the sidewalks are crowded with pedestrians and at every other store women shout to shoppers to try the food on offer. Much of it is meat and seafood. In the unassuming Cheung Ming Building in Argyle Street, however, a quiet revolution is brewing.

Seven floors up from street level, I open a door to find 80 people on mint green plastic chairs. Some are meditating with their eyes closed but most focus their attention on a man at the front of the room. He is wearing a yellow and green tie-dyed T-shirt, shorts and headband.

Faint piano music plays as the man gently taps a gong, which gives off a soothing vibration. The place is Club O, the event is its weekly Zen lunch and the man is Simon Chau.

As co-founder of the Vegetarian Society of Hong Kong, which now operates under the larger Club O, Chau has not found it easy to promote his philosophy. Only a tiny percentage of adults here are vegetarian and, despite fears over animal-related diseases, the number has barely grown.

A survey carried out every two years by the society has consistently shown that 1.5 percent of adults in the territory are vegetarians, Chau says.

Last year's survey showed a rise in the number from 2002 to 1.6 percent. Club O membership remains at 3,000, however, the same number as five years ago.

"Ten years ago, vegetarians had a bad name. People thought we were anti- science," Chau says. "But now we're very much respected. We're regarded as ahead of the times and liberated."

Despite a slowly growing acceptance of vegetarianism, the government, doctors and some churches are against adopting the regime 100 percent.

"Mainstream nutritionists insist you must eat meat to be fully healthy. Chinese doctors are also against full vegetarianism, but they all agree too much meat is bad," says Chau.

A Department of Health spokeswoman says the government is not against vegetarianism but promotes a balanced diet of fruit, vegetables and protein.

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals Asia-Pacific director Jason Baker says vegetarianism is no longer considered taboo and is more socially acceptable now. PETA, which is best known for its celebrity endorsements and outrageous activism, has its own vegetarian starter kits.

And people are at least thinking about it. They are, in large part, motivated by food scares that have been making headlines across the world.

This summer, 11 people in Hong Kong were diagnosed with streptococcus suis, the pig-borne disease that killed 38 in Sichuan province. Combined with the constant threat of mad cow disease and recent worries over the cancerous chemical, malachite green, in fish and eels, people are becoming increasingly concerned about the food they eat.

According to Baker, the food situation is only going to get worse. He sees diseases like avian flu becoming a greater threat to human health. PETA has seen signs of increased concerns in the higher number of requests for its vegetarian starter kits.

"We get five to 10 requests for starter kits in Hong Kong and probably about 250 a week in all of Asia," Baker says.

Vegetarian Society chairwoman Catherine Hung says people who convert to vegetarianism do so because of health concerns.

"People say to me, `We can't eat chicken, we can't eat fish. What can we do? How can we live healthily?"'

In addition to animal-related diseases, many people are also uncomfortable about the development of genetically modified foods, she says.

While the number of true vegetarians in the territory is small, many people do have a meat-free diet as a result of religious practices such as Buddhism, Baker says.

But although there are at least 60 vegetarian restaurants here, the territory's interest in vegetarianism lags behind countries such as the Philippines and Indonesia.

According to Chau, part of the problem here is that, culturally, meat is associated with luxury.

"Up until 40 years ago, in this part of the world, few people could afford meat so they were forced to be vegetarians," he says. Now most people can afford meat, poultry and seafood.

At Club O, everyone seems to be a believer. The group consists mainly of women, some with children."Let go of your body's worries," Chau tells them as volunteers hand out chopsticks.

Chau introduces the lunch enthusiastically. "I want you to talk to your food today," he says. "We used positive energy to make the food and we are going to eat a delicious vegan meal. Get to know your food."

As he talks, bowls of bean and walnut soup are passed out.

"We carried these bowls, all 100 of them, from far away. We hope you can sense the spirit of these bowls when you eat."

To a meat-lover, Chau's words may seem, well, a bit kooky. From his tie- dye art to his New Age references to spirituality, he makes it easy for skeptics to dismiss him.

But as I eat the second course of noodle salad, I begin to understand his motivation. In this world of fast-food wrappers, styrofoam takeout boxes and express lines, how often do we actually sit down and enjoy our food?

As a meat-eater, I am impressed. The noodles are a delight, made with Chinese spaghetti, bean sprouts, carrots and raw corn, all coated in a delicious soy dressing. This is followed by rice cooked with lentils, raisins and dried turnip slices.

Chau's push to slow down and enjoy life fuels all aspects of Club O. While the club's focus is on healthy food and vegetarianism, it is also about spirituality.

"We regard vegetarianism not as an act but as a way of life," he says.

Chau says most members are not vegetarians - they are just interested in a healthier lifestyle.

In addition to the free weekly Zen lunch, people can take part in yoga, relaxation sessions and vegan cooking workshops at Club O.

Chau says his ultimate dream is to make Club O a green version of Club Med.

His dream took a step closer to reality recently with the opening of Club O's first store, which is stocked with organic food, art and green living resources.

As I leave Club O and step back on to the street, my belly warm with the homemade tea brewed with corn and wondering if I can stop eating meat, I feel a little healthier and slightly more peaceful.

Mong Kok seems to be a strange place for something like Club O, but perhaps it is where things are the most chaotic that we need to learn to relax.*Note start required*