International food bible Michelin has opened a can of worms in Hong Kong.The first Michelin Guide on Hong Kong and Macau was unveiled yesterday and immediately had foodies across the SAR complaining.
Two restaurants were awarded three stars - the highest in the famous grading system.
Lung King Heen in the five-star Four Seasons Hotel was the only one in Hong Kong hitting the heights among 202 establishments reviewed by undercover Michelin inspectors. The other was in Macau, where 49 eateries were reviewed.
Seven restaurants in Hong Kong were given two stars and 14 one star.
Another 24 restaurants with friendlier price tags were included in the "Bib Gourmand" category.
Lung King Heen's executive Chinese chef Chan Yan-tak said the key to three stars is high quality ingredients. But the honor did surprise him.
"As long as I see customers devouring happily I'm satisfied."
Alvin Leung, dubbed "Demon Chef" who owns Bo Innovation, said he is thrilled to be in the guide.
Famed roast goose restaurant Yung Kee in Central got only one star along with the "canteen of the rich" Fook Lam Moon in Wan Chai and Forum, also in Central.
The guide, however, left a distinctly sour taste in the mouth for some.
Food critic Li Chunen complained that inspectors only grade food served in luxury hotels. Fellow critic Lau Kin- wai said the standard Michelin adopts "is safe but brings little surprise."
Celebrity chef Chow Chung was even more critical, saying the guide misse
d many of the good small restaurants because the inspectors are mostly Westerners and focus too much on style and decoration. "The taste of Chinese [cuisine] is totally different from the West. We don't like their cheese, and they find our FuYu [fermented tofu] disgusting."
In Macau, Robuchon a Galera in the Lisboa was awarded three stars while one restaurant got two stars and four others one.
The guide, however, was more to some people's taste. The food bible is a useful source for tourists, particularly individuals who often do their own research before coming to Hong Kong, Inbound Travel Association chairman Paul Leung Yiu-lam said.
"We also organize some 'food tours' where we bring tourists to renowned restaurants and let them order their own food. This guide serves as an authority so tourists know they are really getting the best food," he said.
Secretary for Commerce and Economic Development Rita Lau Ng Wai- lan also welcomed the release of the Michelin Guide, which she said is further recognition of Hong Kong's reputation as a center for gastronomy.
