The message of Sunday's crowd, estimated by organizers at 250,000 and by some independent analysts at 100,000 or more, was clear.

"We want universal suffrage," legislator Ronny Tong, of the pro-democracy Article 45 Concern Group, said, adding that it was a historic day in Hong Kong's quest for democracy.

Later, Tsang said he would do what he could to "perfect" the package of reforms that he plans to put to a Legislative Council vote on December 21.

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It was the largest protest in Hong Kong since July 1, 2004, when the public vented its anger against former chief executive Tung Chee-hwa.

With Tung now gone and the economy in good shape, the only factor bringing crowds to the streets on a cool December day was a desire for democracy.

They became emotional when the popular Anson Chan, the one-time boss of Tsang, joined the march in a first.

"I just feel there are moments in one's life when you have to stand up and be counted. And for me, this is one of those moments," she said.

Tsang, facing the biggest challenge so far to his authority, appeared tired and nervous at a press briefing.

"I have heard their voice, I have felt their feelings and I share their pursuit; and the central government perfectly understands their aspirations," he said.

Despite the turnout, which police put at just 63,000, Tsang was unwilling to make substantial revisions to the reform proposals, which the pro-democracy camp says retard progress toward universal suffrage.

Regardless of the varying estimates of the turnout, Sunday's rally, said the camp, is without doubt a significant demonstration for democracy. The turnout was better than expected and exceeded the 25,000 who marched this July 1. Some analysts and pro-Beijing loyalists, including casino tycoon Stanley Ho, had said no more than 50,000 would turn up.

The organizers said the better-than- expected turnout means the government has to respond to mounting calls for a timetable for democracy.

Earlier, wearing black T-shirts to signify the death of democracy and holding placards and brandishing banners and flags, protesters began marching from Victoria Park at 3pm to the SAR Government Headquarters in Central where they handed over a petition.

The peaceful throng included the young, the old and the handicapped.

Led by about 15 pro-democracy lawmakers holding a large flag with the words "Oppose government proposals; Fight for democracy," and two large birdcages signifying the state of Hong Kong's democracy, the marchers shouted slogans such as "Return power to the people," "Create history," "Give me universal suffrage," "Fight for our own fate" and "We deserve democracy."

The last batch of protesters arrived at the government headquarters about 7.30pm.

Tsang insisted the government will not change its plan to submit the proposals to the Legislative Council for a vote on December 21.

All 25 pro-democracy lawmakers have said they will vote down the proposals and deny the government the necessary two-thirds majority in the 60-strong chamber. If the package is vetoed, there will be no change in the electoral system for 2007-2008.

"There is little scope for me to change [the proposals]. But I hope that within what little scope I have, I will see what I can do to perfect the package," Tsang said. "But it will be of limited scale and it will not affect the timetable for resolution of this matter in the Legislative Council [on December 21]. Nor will it itself produce quickly a timetable that is not achievable."

Tsang has staked his prestige on the proposals, which he began shaping while serving under Tung. The government insists the package has the backing of the majority of Hong Kong residents.

Tsang said the public should not haggle over the turnout estimate and that he believes people do not want to see Hong Kong's political development come to a halt.

He reiterated there was no conflict between fighting for democracy and supporting the government proposals, which he said will bring Hong Kong closer to universal suffrage.

"I am 60 years of age. I certainly want to see universal suffrage taking place in Hong Kong in my time. My feeling and my wish is the same as most other people participating in the rally today."

However, the organizers, including the Civil Human Rights Front and 24 pro-democracy lawmakers, excluding unionist Lau Chin-shek, who failed to show up because of sickness, branded Tsang's remarks as "rubbish," declaring they will organize another mass protest this Saturday.

"We need concrete answers and solid action. I hope he would stop honing his public relations skill. He should let Hong Kong people see what he's actually pursuing," said unionist lawmaker Lee Cheuk-yan

Before the march, the head of Hong Kong's Catholic church, Bishop Joseph Zen, held a brief prayer session with 500 hundred followers. Zen accused the government of lying when it said the reform package is a large step forward for democracy. He described the proposals as a dead-end, and that lack of progress towards full democracy showed contempt for the Basic Law.

"It is the biggest lie I have heard," he said. "We will go around in circles with no direction. We have to fight for universal suffrage."

The large crowd was also a rebuke to Tsang's last-minute televised address in which he pleaded with Hong Kongers to support the reforms.

Casino tycoon Ho had warned Hong Kongers not to provoke Beijing.

"The pace of democratization has to be approved by the central government. What good will it do to Hong Kong if the people provoke Beijing? It will only take longer for Hong Kong to have universal suffrage," Ho warned.

Basic Law drafter Xu Chongde said the protest was nothing to worry about.

"Protests to Hong Kong people is now common practice," Xu said.

He argued that since the National People's Congress Standing Committee has already ruled out universal suffrage in 2007-08, there is no point putting pressure on Beijing.

"Hong Kong people should not put pressure on the central government. I think they'd better adopt a more rational approach [in voicing their demands]," he said.

A seminar in Shenzen Friday between legislators, including some democrats, and NPC Standing Committee deputy secretary general Qiao Xiaoyang, failed to mute the protest.

The pro-democracy camp insists the package - which would double the size of the Election Committee that will elect the chief executive in 2007 to 1,600 members and expand Legco to 70 - is mere window dressing. They have demanded Beijing set a timetable for universal suffrage, but the central government has refused to do so.