|(Paris Fashion Week) Decorative details
The 41-piece display by the label in Paris _ which used embroidered black silk stockings, Eisenhower jackets embellished cabaret-style with large feathered shoulders, dark appliqued embroideries, smoking jackets and some 1940s baggy, blue jeans _ was a study in noir.
The glimmering catwalk landscape was towered over by a huge clock, whose arms, instead of going forward, went back in time nostalgically.
“We went back and used all the different bits of the sets of the past,'' designer Marc Jacobs explained backstage.
The clothes, too, went back in time.
Floor-length, thick Edwardian dresses and large proportions in the sleeves fused with black decorative corset details that evoked the fashions of the 1900s, and contrasted with the more revealing “showgirl'' looks.
They were inspired by singers such as Cher, whose look from the “Take Me Home'' days was evoked in many ensembles. But at moments it felt as if some looks belonged more to Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci.
In the program notes, Jacobs enclosed a message evoking a farewell to LVMH's chief executive: “For. Bernard Arnault. All my love, always.''
It was an emotional farewell, but not for all.
While most of the fashion world recognizes Jacobs' talents, some lament that he became too known as a showman and say that under his tenure at the house recognizable codes have not been created like at other storied houses such as Dior and Chanel.—AP