|(Paris Fashion Week) Somber note for Jacobs goodbye
As maids swept away dust from steps that led into a set in mourning, it was clear that the Louis Vuitton fashion show in Paris was a spring-summer collection in name only.
There was a dark fountain and a nightmarish carousel featuring inky, surreal-looking horses. There was a twin escalator and a luxury hotel elevator. And there was the universe of clothes in all-black.
The decor was like a greatest hits collection that fused elements of past shows with the present one, tracing designer Marc Jacobs' 16-year reign at the house.
Shortly after the show at the Louvre Museum in Paris, the visual metaphor was explained: LVMH announced that Jacobs was stepping down as creative director of its flagship brand. So Jacobs' ready-to-wear collection for the storied house looked like a funeral for a reason.
The dark show came on the final day of a fashion week that saw designers channel black and white but also other, sometimes colorful trends. Looks on high rotation included: tribal African, ethnic pattern prints, multitudinous pleats, metallic sheen and revealing micro mini crop tops. Mid-blue was a particularly favored color.
And while Louis Vuitton shows are often extravagant and can use sets that cost millions of euros, the less well-off had options, too, during this year's fashion week. An initiative in recent years called the “Designer's Apartment'' provided showroom spaces for top young designers such as Aganovich, Monographie and Le Moine Tricote.
Still, it was the well-established heavy hitters who drew the most attention.—AP